The Ideal Focal Length for Portraiture: A Photographer’s Experiment

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The Ideal Focal Length for Portraiture: A Photographer’s Experiment

The Ideal Focal Length for Portraiture: A Photographer’s Experiment

how shooting at different focal lengths impacts a photo

When framing a photo, have you ever considered the focal length at which you are framing the subject? The examples above represent the same subject, framed in the same manner yet they have strikingly different appearances due to the difference in focal length. Framing a subject inside a shot can be done two separate ways; working distance from the camera to the subject, or the focal length. In this example we start by taking a 24mm shot just inches from the subject’s face, filling the lens with her face and shoulders. Using this shot as a reference,

I took a few steps back, reframed the subject identically sized for the 35mm shot, and continued all of the way up to 165mm. As the series of shots progressed to the 165mm shot, I was 12-14 feet away from the subject. When you look through this series of photos, it is clear that the smaller focal lengths have the effect of distorting the subjects face and in this case brought out her nose prominently. Look at the size of her nose, eyes, and eyebrows. I can assure you that this is NOT what she looks like in person.The shorter focal lengths also appear to give the face a very angular and slim appearance. As you pass the ideal focal length for portraiture and shoot at 135 or 165mm, the girl’s face seems to flatten out and become wider than it is in person.

There are obvious reasons for all focal lengths, and different situations for every lens arrangement. In my experience, when shooting primarily portraiture, the ideal focal length ranges from 70-100mm from your subject utilizing 6-10 feet of working distance between the camera and the subject.

In the next set of photos I have framed the same shot at two extremes of the spectrum, 24mm and 160mm. In this particular photo, the only difference technically in the two shots is the focal length and the working distance between the camera and the subject. As you can see, the girl is approximately the same size and the photo was taken at the same angle. Notice the bush and fallen trees in the background of this photo. Notice the difference in what appears to be the size of the bushes. This is due to the compression that is created by the telephoto lens being shot at 160mm.

One thing to take into account is the format of the camera that you are using. The focal lengths used in this article apply to a full frame and not a camera that has a crop sensor. If you shoot with a camera that has a crop sensor, you need to translate the focal lengths to a focal length that would yield the same field of view as the full frame that was used.

Next time that you are on a shoot, try to shoot the same shot using an array of different focal lengths and determine your personal preferences. Photography is artistry and if you are looking to shoot something that is to ultimately appear less than realistic, and/or you are going for that quirky look and feel to your photos, distortion and different focal lengths is one way to achieve it. So, make sure to keep focal length and working distance in mind next time you go to push that trigger finger and your sure to find a variety of perspectives for each shot!

Haleigh Rohner is a photographer in Arizona, where she was born and raised. She is married, with four children… the youngest of which just turned 1 month old. She specializes in the photography of newborns, children and families. Check out her site to see more of her work.

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54 Comments

  1. Deea
    June 4, 2013 at 9:36 pm —

    50mm or 85mm cropped sensor…

  2. May 18, 2013 at 3:11 am —

    Perfect! I heard about this but never had such a clear example, thank you.

  3. Perry Dalrymple
    August 12, 2012 at 11:20 am —

    This is the best article I’ve found so far that clearly explains and demonstrates the effect of focal length on portraits. The side by side comparison pics really helped the concept click in my mind. Great job!

  4. July 31, 2012 at 11:23 pm —

    I found this through pintrest and I can’t tell you how absolutely helpful I found the article to be. Just to visualize the differences through the focal lengths. I have a full frame sensor dslr but only have 50mm and and wide angle lens. now I am sure I want to get a 100mm or 105mm lens I see that there is a difference. I also love that you showed the way the background is compressed with the two different focal lengths.

  5. July 28, 2012 at 8:40 pm —

    Thanks for your comparison, you’ve showed really clearly what happens with different focal lengths!

    I find that my 100mm macro gets the most use. It takes amazing portraits, and has the added bonus of zooming in on tiny details.

  6. mod
    July 19, 2012 at 7:51 pm —

    On your exampes my vote is for 50mm – for me it is obviously best shot in sens of perspective look.
    70mm still looks good.
    100mm looks too much unrealistic, field of view is too small and background looks washed.
    Even if our eyes see the world in such small depth of field our brains recreate far more DOF so we did not see such washed background as happened on full frame sensor with wide opened aperture. It is popular artistic trick for many years but it is nrealistic anyway.

  7. that guy
    June 21, 2012 at 12:57 pm —

    This was a great explanation of different focal lengths, but I must ask if you moved the model further back in 2nd example? In the 24mm frame there is no wood protruding from the structure and in the 160mm there is wood protruding from the structure.

    • maibritt k
      June 4, 2013 at 9:42 pm —

      the model is in the exact same place. The background seeming further away is due to the distortion of a wide angle lens. and seemin closer is due to the compression of longer focal lengths.

    • Richard
      June 25, 2015 at 12:02 pm —

      I know this is absurdly late, but although the model is in the same place, the original article does state that the working distance between subject and camera was different – the model is in the same spot, but the photographer is further away.

  8. Great post. It also highlights the importance of using the right lens when you do portraiture. The examples are great too.

  9. January 27, 2012 at 12:47 pm —

    This is a nice example. My one minor complaint is that you don’t show your model’s ears — doing so would have added more to the sense of depth (or lack thereof) of the different focal lengths. Still, good job. I will be bookmarking this page so I can point people to it when they ask questions like, “Can I shoot portraits with an X mm lens?”

    Also, I don’t think you are correct when you say, “This is NOT what she looks like in person.” It would be more precise to say that this is exactly what she looks like IF you put your eyes just a few inches away from her face. The lens isn’t lying, and the difference between a 24mm lens and your eye is just that your eye has a narrower field of clear vision. We normally look at people from several feet feet away, so facial shots look more realistic to us when taken from those distances. This leads to the choice of an 85mm or so lens to get the desired framing for a facial shot. That’s the only reason 85-135mm lenses are considered more suitable for portraits.

  10. November 12, 2011 at 11:25 am —

    This is a great tutorial! I loved the differences in the first set of photos in the portrait. I guessed that 135mm was the best one, so I was close 🙂 Really glad I discovered this site!

  11. November 9, 2011 at 5:30 pm —

    I’ve previously seen a comparison similar to your first. Yours however is more exact (the other had different examples rather than the same model and framing). I LOVE the second comparison. I’ve always wondered how different the compression would look, and this is an amazing example! Thank you so much!

  12. Alissa
    November 9, 2011 at 10:44 am —

    Interesting article. Thanks for taking the time to shoot all those focal lengths and writing about them.

  13. November 9, 2011 at 10:38 am —

    Wow!! Great article! Love the examples!! Thank you!!

  14. JimmyB
    November 9, 2011 at 10:38 am —

    “If you shoot with a camera that has a crop sensor, you need to translate the focal lengths to a focal length that would yield the same field of view as the full frame that was used.”

    Tread lightly here. Just to clarify, going from APS-C to full frame (or vice versa) won’t change the perspective, only the field of view. The comparison in the article is about perspective. 50mm is 50mm – it doesn’t matter how large of a sensor is at the focal plane.

    Great article and thanks for showing examples.

  15. November 9, 2011 at 10:31 am —

    Excellent article – thank you! A picture is worth a thousand words, indeed!

  16. Bob
    November 9, 2011 at 10:18 am —

    Were the photographs corrected in any way for the lens distortion effect, say, in Photoshop?

    Great article!

  17. November 9, 2011 at 9:40 am —

    Thank you for sharing this! I currently shoot with just a prime lens, which I love, but it’s nice to see the different looks I could get with a zoom lens.

  18. November 9, 2011 at 9:26 am —

    Thanks for sharing this. Great info!

  19. November 9, 2011 at 9:26 am —

    I have never really thought about this aspect before and how it would change the appearance of the photo like that. Thank you so much for bringing this to light and educating us!!

  20. Paul Abrahams
    November 9, 2011 at 7:55 am —

    100mm looks about perfect for the half torso head shot. Nice bokeh too. I just ordered a canon 85m for a 1.6 crop for shooting portraits, can’t wait to get it! You know its taken me days of research to learn about this and your article explains it so simply and spot on.

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The Ideal Focal Length for Portraiture: A Photographer’s Experiment